The Three Brothers

What it is

The Three Brothers was a piece of jewellery made in the late 14th century. Records say the Parisian goldsmith Herman Ruissel made it in 1389 for Duke John the Fearless of Burgundy. It had three rectangular red spinels around a central diamond. It became part of the English crown jewels, and it was worn by Elizabeth I and by James VI and I. Its whereabouts after 1645 are unknown, so no surviving object can be seen today. What we know comes from inventories, a later description and a miniature painting made in Basel.

Why it matters

The jewel passed through the hands of Burgundian dukes, a German banker named Jakob Fugger, and English monarchs. Its history shows how valuable objects linked royal power, wealth and debt. Under Charles I, Henrietta Maria tried to sell it to raise funds during the English Civil War, though it is unclear whether she succeeded.

Look closer

• What do the records of this jewel tell us about who owned it and how it was valued?
• Why might a jewel like this be sold or pawned, and what does that say about royal finances?
• Since the jewel is lost, what sources do we rely on, and what might they fail to show?